Clinical, instrumental, image analyses and self-perception assessments: Integral components in determining efficacy and safety of facial antiaging cosmetics

23^rd World Dermatology Congress

June 20-21, 2022 | Paris, France

Nalini Kaul

Princeton Consumer Research, Canada

Posters & Accepted Abstracts: J Dermatol Dis

Abstract :

Our skin undergoes intrinsic aging (chronological aging) as well as extrinsic aging. Most lines and wrinkles are due to extrinsic aging caused by environmental factors and lifestyle choices like sun exposure, pollution, poor diet, smoking, alcohol use and not enough sleep. Multiple factors are responsible for the clinical signs of aging, chief being loss of hydration, dermal proteins and oxidative stress. Cutaneous photoaging is characterized by fine lines, wrinkles, dryness, roughness, dullness, laxity, hyperpigmentation, pore size, loss of elasticity and firmness. Skin needs additional supportive care including photoprotection with sunscreen and antioxidants. With increasing interest in non-surgical ways for improving facial signs of aging, there is no dearth of cosmetic antiaging products available presently and new introductions often. However, products vary widely in their efficacy and potency. Therefore, a well-rounded approach is needed, keeping the ingredients in mind, for execution in clinical testing. Appropriate assessment methods to detect improvement or not and its extent in reducing or delaying symptoms of facial skin aging severity should be employed. Skin aging is studied directly by clinical grading, various bio instruments, and indirect methods (including D-Squames®, silicone impressions and analyses). In addition, consumer perception, crucial to product success, provides valuable clues. Our objective was to test efficacy and safety of anti-aging cosmetics on various antiaging attributes in clinical designs with 35 healthy volunteers (F- 35-65 y). Assessments included visual and tactile evaluations for lines, wrinkles, roughness, skin tone, pores and hyperpigmentation by a trained grader, hydration with Corneometer®, brightness with Colorimeter®, elasticity, firmness with Cutometer®, Moisture mapping with MoistureMeter, digital photos with VISIA® CR, Vaestro® for image analyses, and volunteer self-perception. Our results showed product efficacy and safety and their extent, when studying various antiaging parameters. In conclusion, use of a panoply of assessments including clinical grading, various non-invasive bioengineering techniques and self-perception yields a more complete assessment of a product’s antiaging skin effects. Besides proving efficacy and safety it also helps with claim substantiation. This information helps the consumer in making an informed decision in choosing a product that proactively reduces/delays signs of aging and makes them look and feel aesthetically upbeat at the same time.

Biography :

Dr Nalini Kaul completed her PhD. from PGIME&R Chandigarh, India. Post- doctoral training from St Boniface General Hospital Winnipeg Canada and from the University of Southern California, USA. Soon after she took a Senior Scientist position at the University of Dallas, Texas. Following her return to Canada she worked as Technical Director on Clinical trials with a reputed CRO, moved on to hold a joint appointment as Sr. Director of Regulatory Affairs and Director of Clinical trials with another firm of repute. At present she is Vice President of Technical Services at a well reputed CRO serving North American and the UK. She has published 40 papers in national and international journals, has several book chapters to her credit and has widely presented at conferences both nationally and internationally.